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I'm using Mobil Vactra Oil No. 2 way oil. ISO VG 68. I bought a gallon of it in 2021. It is what my SYIL rep told me to get. I'm glad MSC is cheaper. I almost bought it at a higher price as well.

@PowerForgeWorkshop ahh right on! That is what I ordered to give it a try in the X7. Glad to hear Syil was recommending it as well!

Thanks. It seems to be working out just fine without.

Well, so far so good. Someone else commented that Lang doesn't send instructions either. The product quality seems good. So far, I am the weak link. 😂 This is new territory for me. It's working out though.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop You are doing great. I am enjoying watching your journey. Ciao, Marco.

@@EZ_shop thanks man

My mill is a 2020. I ordered it not long after they announced the new Schneeberger mineral casting (before covid-19 took off). So it's an early model for sure.

Mlock 125 dual. www.ai5x.net/workholding

Really!?! I didn't know that. Yes, I've been buying Amazon. I'll definitely buy my next batch from McMaster. Thank you!

Nice. I did the same thing. They fit very well.

I designed it on Fusion 360 and made it in house. Though not everything works out, I try to design and make everything myself.

Yep. You're not wrong.

Thanks, they've been good to me so far. I already wouldn't mind a few more vises. The quality and price point are nice. Good to hear about their compatibility with 5 axis. That company rocks, I'd love to get some of there stuff.

That was mild steel. The machine has a BT30 spindle and no, I don't think it can handle 40% WOC in any metal. In my opinion, it likes 5-10% DOC with higher RPMs. It's definitely not a rigid torque monster.

You are not wrong. I already have what I need designed in Fusion. Same specs except M8 thread.

Agreed. I will fab new t nuts with M8 threads.

Yes. I will move the tool setter. This was just a mock up.

Agreed. I'm going to drop the centers and just use T nuts.

Thanks for the comments, and you're right. I've got new t nuts programmed in fusion. I'll machine them new and use M8 threads.

Thanks for the comment. That's a great suggestion. I've decided to go with M8 threads and new t nuts.

That's great. I hope my set up / video helped in some way. Working with copper, bronze, and aluminum is definitely more forgiving. You have time to set up and us centering jigs, etc. Still, there is something very satisfying about holding a coin forged out of steel.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop Absolutely! I find the cold pressing of more ductile metals gives slightly different results because it extrudes more than the rapid surface changes that the pliability in hot steel can achieve. Still learning though!

If you haven't already, try zinc. It feels like cheating. It's heavier than aluminum and looks great.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop Will do, thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the comment. Have you ever tried the "Flat" tool-path in Fusion 360. I've been employing that strategy on some of my parts and the results are often really cool. Like you said, it's a finishing strategy so shallow DOC and larger step over.

Back when I started learning G code, I was a big fan of Udemy. I took a few classes from Marc Cronin. Here's the link. www.udemy.com/user/marc-cronin/ I think now, I might go back and re-do the courses. He was pretty good though I felt like I needed more, so I went to the local community college and that really helped. To be honest, now I use Fusion 360 for design and post processing. I don't code anything by hand. Fusion lets me design 3D models and its Machining extension has great milling strategies and outputs the G code for my post processor. I thinks it's good to at least have a familiarity with g code to read and edit what Fusion spits out, if needed.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop Great! Thanks!

The group I am in is Syil CNC Users. It's a private group. facebook.com/groups/2017324675184617/

@@PowerForgeWorkshop I am in that group. But George was happy to provide the manual, so very greatful. :)

@@INWondeR Awesome - It's a nice reference. I have it printed out and placed in a 3-ring binder.

The wider foot print was the main reason I went with silver CNC. At the time there were 3 5th Axis plates on eBay for cheap, but they didn't feel like they were designed for my application. When you ask for a quote, SilverCNC will send you a CAD file and prints. According the the CAD the plate measures 350 mm wide in X and 230 mm in Y. This covers a significant portion of the Syil X7 axis travels (400x300x380mm). Any bigger in X and I might not have room from my tool setter, although, one could technically Put the TTC-200 on a quick-change base and use one of the base plate's stations. ;) Then move it off to the side during operation. There are 4 rows of countersunk holes to attach the plate to the T tracks. The outer two rows are 200 mm apart in Y. I've got it mocked up centered on the table in Fusion 360. In cyber space it looks good, but I still haven't set it up on my Syil. Anyway, that's up to 8 bolts I can use to secure it to the table which should keep from moving.

@@PowerForgeWorkshopthanks for the detailed reply. I actually ended up pulling the trigger so I’ll be receiving one in the near future too. Definitely like it much better than the 5th axis offerings and really like how it looks in the fusion layout. I guess there are some guys using HWR / LANG but the size and patterns didn’t really seem to work all that well with our work envelope. That and I’m assuming they both cost 2-3x more than Silver since they’re made in Germany. I put the TTC on a removable base similar to how the Titans guys did and it’ll be parked elsewhere when not in use. I’ll be able to fit 2x 6” vices side by side on the plate for op1 / op2 or remove one to make room to swing a part in the 4th axis. Or remove both and put a pallet on, or a tombstone…..so many options. Until mine arrives I’ll be living vicariously through you lol. Looking forward to seeing you get it trammed in and put to use! Chuck

@@cskovach Chuck, congrats on your order. It shouldn't take long for you to get it. I wouldn't be surprised if you have yours set up before I do. Since I got back from my road trip, I've been swamped. No complaints though. I'm blessed with work. Your set up sounds great. I will need to get another vise down the road so that I can do a side by side set up like you mentioned. Also, it sounds like I should look for that Titan video. I'd be interested in parking the tool setter somewhere else. Fingers crossed, I can set my new toys from Silver CNC soon.

Good luck. I waited about three years before I did it, and I didn't know what I was missing. It's nice to have a network drive. Also, I don't think you need to do anything fancy like setting up a small network hub like I did. Unless you want to. It's a worthy project unto itself. You can likely, connect your XP laptop to your internet modem via an Ethernet cable and be good to go. Having a Subject Matter Expert to help you is a good idea. I have a buddy that rescues me from time to time.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop that’s great to know, I’ll ask my ‘computer friend’ lol to take a look. So I should be able to take a G-Code from Fusion, save it in my W10 pc, then be able to access that via my XP laptop and send it to the Syil?

@@MrRctintin My bad, I don't think I explained this in the video. On the XP, Vista, or Windows 7 laptop (or server for that matter), you have to create a shared network folder that the Syil can connect with. Then you must plug this laptop with the network drive into your switch or modem via an Ethernet cable. On your Windows 10 computer you need to map to that shared folder. Once that is done, it will look like another hard drive (like your C: or D: directory). Do the same on the Syil like I showed in the video. Now both your computer and the Syil will have read/write access to the shared network folder on your laptop. The Siemens 808D requires a username and password to connect to the laptop as well as the computer name. Lastly, on Fusion 360, change your g-code output folder to the new network folder on your XP laptop. When you post your code, it will be saved on the laptop instead of your computer or USB drive. All you have to do at this point is power on the Syil and navigate to the directory that you set up on the laptop.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop great info, thanks so much.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

Thank you very much!

Thanks. Baby steps. I'm learning and the shop is growing. Happy to do a video regarding the network drive.

After draining the tank I pulled the plug. It didn't have much tape on it. I'll put enough Teflon on it today and retest. With another batch of water.

Thank you! It's a small space, so I do whatever I can to keep it organized.

Good to know. I tightened it as well (until I started to loose the square head of the plug inside) with no luck. I'll see if I can tighten it a little more with a socket and ratchet. Thanks 👍

Thanks, I'll look into it. I was going to do an inline cartridge style filter in a stainless housing. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with a bag filtration system.

@@PowerForgeWorkshop i would just skip the inline cartridge's if you can afford it(pass the cost on the client lol cough*). They have problems from continuous use. The filters don't last very long even at 25 micron. Especially if you do alot of fine work with tiny step-overs. It'll be clogged in a week of use. Also cleaner coolant with sustained high pressure output is ideal for the perfect milling. Checkout Keller Products, the hooked me up with a good system.

​@@PowerForgeWorkshop You might wanna skip the inline cartridges and get the bag filter instead. the inline cartridges have a host of issues, they clog easily even at 25 micron filtration. If you do a lot of fine work with small stepovers, you will regret putting that thing on your machine. bag filters also will give you cleaner coolant with sustained high pressure which is good for the machine and part. the inline systems lose pressure so fast you will only get like 10 psi coming out of your system vs 50psi or more with 5 micron bag filter.

check out keller products they hooked me up with a good system. They are based in Massachusetts.

@@matthewharrison8531 Awesome, I'm sold!

Yep, sounds like a good idea to me.

They are fun machines

I've never seen it change. I still check annually, but so far so good.

Thanks man

Interesting, like a peristaltic pump? Worth trying out. I have an unused pump from another project. I might try it out.

Yes. I use the standard formula to establish RPM. With carbide the RPM is increased 2 to 4 times. Simplified, my formula is CS x 3.82 / diameter of stock. Where CS (cutting speed) in this clip is 100 for mild steel. 200 for aluminum. It's a good starting point for me when manual machining.

Thanks, I have the original plate for a single blade, but would also like one for dado operations. It's been a great little saw. It would be worth having a larger plate for it.

Thanks

Fantastic idea!

Absolutely, I totally agree!

Thanks, she's a beast. The fly press has turned out to be a useful tool in the shop.

Thanks Chris! I can certainly be accused of liking new and old tech. I enjoy it all.

Happy to share any information I can, especially the mistakes. 😎

I forgot to mention in the video, there is a relief milled on the underside of the die to allow the slug to exit the die.

Thanks Aaron. Great to hear from you. Your v block vise project looks cool BTW. Looking forward to the video.

Sure. The critical dimensions are the punch is 20 mm x 5.5 mm and the die is 20.5 x 6 mm. I'll follow up with a video that will include the drawings.

Logan Lathe Model No. 2555-V. Variable Speed 1 HP motor 3 phase. The catalog lists the top speed at 1750, but I haven't taken it past 1200. It cuts well and leaves a great surface finish. It's not a monster and it's not a cheap import. Pretty good for the money. Love the back gear for heavy work. I can hold a tolerance of 1 to 2 thousands, but I doubt I could do any better. A DRO would be nice. The Z traversing wheel (aka saddle handle, carriage hand wheel etc.) is not graduated so I have to use a 0-1 dial indicator. The cross slide is however, and I can feed it increments of 1000ths of an inch.

Thanks!

👍